FOSAF_4888.jpg

 

Although my name is Yaqoob TarMohammed most flyfishers know me as JoziFly. I am professional fly-tyer based in Johannesburg and I typically fish the Vaal for SM Yellowfish and some smaller streams near home for Small and Largescale Yellowfish. I do venture out in the winter months to some of the Stillwaters around Gauteng for trout and I am off to Lesotho ever year in November/December for trout and yellowfish. My favourite species to target is Brown Trout 

The fly I will be sharing with you today is the JF Buster (a variation to the Slump Buster and Umpqua Sparring Partner). Fished on the swing (down and across) or a short quick strip/retrieve or a long slow retrieve is how I typically fish these flies with great success on rivers and equally well on stillwaters.

Over the past several years I have been visiting Lesotho annually… I have had the opportunity to fish several rivers in the Maluti Mountains and while dry flies and nymphs were on my list of preferred tactics, swinging streamers became my favourite method of fishing certain types of water/s on those rivers… takes are hard, aggressive and on occasion visual and I love that.

Being that I always preferred Zonker on most of my streamer patterns. This material is a no-brainier in the construction of this pattern that has many elements derived from the always effective Slump Buster and the quite similar and equally effective Umpqua Sparring Partner. However, those who know me will know that I have to add that JoziFly twist to the mix.

This is how I tie the fly.

FOSAF_4887.jpg

Materials:

Thread of choice (here I use a 50D Nano Silk)

Hook: Grip Nymph & Streamer (13113BL) #10

(Sizes #8-12 are great too)

Bead: 3 or 3.5mm Countersunk Flu Orange (Pink and or Gold are fantastic colors too)

Fl Fire Orange Thread 70D

UV Resin of your choice (preferably a thin resin)

Dub/1: Hareline Gold Ice Dub

Dub/2: Dohiku Spectra Dub (orange)

10lb Mono

Zonker: Tan Grizzly 

Flash: 6905 Flashabou-pearl

Legs/1: Silly Legs (Root Beer colorway)

Legs/2: Hot Orange Hareline Daddy Long Legs

Feather/s: Burnt Orange Hungarian Partridge 

Bulldog clip or Magic clip needed for 2 steps.

FOSAF_4886.jpg

1. Secure Bead to Hook and place into vice jaws.

FOSAF_4885.jpg

2. Using the FL Fire Orange thread start thread wraps on the shank. Using the hook point as a guide create a small thread bump approximately one hook eye in length, whip finish and snip off close. Coat the Fl Fire Orange thread bump in UV Resin and cure with UV light/Torch.

Tie in a section on 10lb mono (about a 4cm section is easily managed without getting in the way) using the natural curve/memory of the mono tie in with the mono curving upward/ away from the top of the hook shank (secure with tight wraps and a dab of super glue).

FOSAF_4884.jpg

3. Grab a clump of Hareline Ice dub (Gold), align fibres as best as possible and tie in just in front of the thread bump and secure with thread wraps all the way to behind the bead (this is important for us to keep a level base for tying in the other materials). These can be snipped off square about half a shank length beyond the hook bend.

FOSAF_4883.jpg

4. Tie in Zonker, secure with tight wraps and a dab of superglue (a 4-5cm section shall be sufficient for this size, you can either cut a V into the Zonker tail end at this point or after completing the fly).

FOSAF_4882.jpg

5. Tie in the Pearl Flashabou, double the flash over onto your thread and secure on the side (side facing you). Take a few wraps forward towards the bead (5-7wraps) to secure, then flip the end of the flash over onto the side of the fly facing away from you and secure with equal wrap rearward towards your initial tie in point. Ensure that the flash on both sides is as level and symmetrical as possible.

Dub on a bit of Orange Spectra dub and wrap to cover up the Zonker tail tie in point. This will serve as an additional hot spot once the fly is in the water when the Zonker pulsates.

FOSAF_4881.jpg

6. To prevent the Zonker tail from wrapping, I use what I have dubbed the superficial method whereby I use a needle or bodkin to barely pierce the Zonker hide (without breaking through to the top side with the fur) [Use the Gold Ice Dub Flash/Undertail as a length guide]. Then thread the mono through as shown in the image above, snip excess mono just shy of the exit point in the hide. Here you can either use a dab of Solarez Flex or a dab of superglue to prevent the mono from pulling out (I prefer A flexible UV Resin). It is important as this “anti-tail wrap guard” serves two purposes, one being to prevent the tail from wrapping around the hook bend/gape and the other to slightly prop up the tail. I have found this to give the fly a more erratic movement which seems to be liked by the quarry.

FOSAF_4880.jpg

7. Two strands of Silly Legs are tied in next, take one strand and double it over. Tie in the silly legs slightly on top of the shank on either side as shown above.

FOSAF_4879.jpgx

8. Using an additional piece of Zonker and a bulldog clip/magic Clip, align and secure 3cm worth of Zonker into the clip, making sure the fur is aligned and straight. Snip as close to the hide as possible. 

FOSAF_4878.jpg

9. Using a bodkin split the thread and offer the Zonker fur to the split thread (if you prefer using a dubbing loop instead that’s fine too) spin your bobbin holder clockwise and create a brush with the Zonker. Free any trapped fibres, a light brush to the fur is helpful too.

FOSAF_4877.jpg

10. Palmer the fur forward onto the shank, stroking the fibres rearward with each turn. Allow yourself 2 hook eye lengths behind the bead for the remaining steps. At this point you could give the fly a good comb with a dubbing brush or Velcro brush.

FOSAF_4876.jpg

11. Using one strand or the Hot Orange Daddy Long Legs material, double over and tie in on either side (just as you did the flash a few steps ago).

FOSAF_4875.jpg

12. Prep and tie in the Hungarian Partridge feather (as you would on a soft hackle) wrap/palmer the feather in and secure.

FOSAF_4874.jpg

13. As in step 11, use your bulldog clip/magic clip to catch the Zonker fibres. The only difference here is we want to cut the fur away from the skin slightly shorter this time, to help created a taper and have a more dense and also shorter stiffer fibres up front to push some water… palmer in and secure. At this point I like to split thread some of the Orange Spectra, dub just to tame the Zonker up front and manipulate the collar into laying slightly rearward. Whip finish and snip your thread close.

FOSAF_4873.jpg

You’re now left with a fly that needs some grooming. You can now cut a V into the tip of the tail if you haven’t already at step 6, this will reduce bulk at the tip and allow for more movement. Snip the Pearl Flashabou to length by holding both strands between the index and thumb of your left/right depending on your dominant and snip square. Use the hide/underside of the Zonker tail as a length guide and snip 1cm longer than the hide, applying the same to the silly legs and the Hot Orange Daddy Long Legs. Snip these 1-2cm shy of the hide/underside of the Zonker and flash. I leave these steps for last so that these materials are not lost under the other materials or get caught while palmering the Zonker (easier managed). This also allows me to cut these materials to a length that allows them to bleed through/stand out from the Zonker collars. Something I started doing is adding barring with a permanent marker to the underside of the Zonker hide. As we know this mimics the illusion of movement. Given that some predatory fish do attack from below this could be a good idea… who knows... A little grooming and a brush out to finish.

FOSAF_4888.jpg

Return to News